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Thursday 30 September 2010

The unique privilege of an Imperial gift


Whatever his or her legitimacy, any head of state can fall victim to a nasty virus or bacteria! Thus a wise emperor would always do well to take particularly good care of his doctor! Napoleon III offered his private physician a superb mansion near the Monceau Plain, in a district of Paris that was fast becoming home to a new caste of merchant bankers and industry bigwigs in the late 19th century. These "Barons of the Empire" threw opulent parties in their private mansions to flaunt their wealth and influence. This way of life was to give rise to an expression the world coined as "Parisian life", which took place to a backdrop of Offenbach operettas and Strauss waltzes, all of which washed down with inordinate quantities of champagne. Such prestigious evenings saw rows of carriages, whose lines aimed at much the same elegance and sophistication as do today's vehicles. The grounds of these properties were laid out in a manner to enable the carriages to enter the courtyard through the carriage gates and leave easily again, once their illustrious patrons were safely delivered. Every mansion was flanked by stables, a saddlery and accommodation for the coachman. Doctor Conneau's former abode, whose original attributes and aristocratic elegance have remained intact, is now home to the Best Western Premier Regent's Garden.

The property survived the 20th century relatively unharmed and, rare for Paris, still boasts its garden. South-facing and sheltered from the rare noise of the adjoining street, it was redesigned in a Japanese style as a reminder of the fascination exerted by Asia on the 19th century Western world. Once past the carriage entrance, you find yourself in a paved courtyard, whose circular carriage drive is now a car park for today's modern "coaches" but which has nonetheless maintained the generous proportions that set the facade off from the street. A magnificent glass canopy shelters guests arriving at the hotel. At the top of the marble steps, the house's noble bearing, which while not ostentatious leaves none in doubt as to its stately origins, immediately impresses by its high ceilings and the quality of the carvings and the cornices. Rugs and paintings complete this stylish picture.

The interior is fully in tune with the demands of modern hostelry, but endeavours to do so by a rare demonstration of exquisite service and by showcasing beautiful objects and noble materials. Countless details depict this state of mind and devotion to craftsmanship from the solid wood doors, sumptuous wall hangings, Murano crystal light fixtures and period furniture (some of which is quite priceless) to the bound books in the library, hand-stitched leather sofas and exquisitely chosen Japanese maple trees in the garden. Life at the Best Western Premier Regent's Garden takes place today as if nothing had changed, such has the establishment maintained its former distinction and luxurious standing. A stylish statement that the current owner nonetheless offsets with a certain mischevious but flawlessly tasteful imagination that is the hallmark of free spirits. The colour scheme for example is often daring, in particular that of the breakfast room, which is depicted by a highly refreshing impression of salubrity. The choice of taps in the bathrooms, of irreproachable quality, is nonetheless quite out of the ordinary. The guestrooms, most of which of outstanding proportions by Paris standards, uphold architectural principles that make life so much simpler.

In fine weather, delicious breakfasts are served at a table in the garden, where the climbing hydrangeas are still damp from the morning dew and the delicate scent of the flowers begins to fill the air with their perfume. A little further away, the bells, named Désirée, Fernande and Rosalie, of Saint Ferdinand Church can be heard ringing. Take the time to savour the unique and authentic pleasure of a setting where time seems to have stood still. If Louis Napoleon Bonaparte was so attached to his private physician, it is because Doctor Conneau showed himself to be a true and faithful friend through good and bad times and the Best Western Premier Regent's Garden remains proof of the quality of their relation still today.


Best Western Premier Regent's Garden Hotel
6 rue Pierre Demours, Paris, France - FR-75017
Phone: +33 (0) 1 45 74 07 30 Fax: +33 (0) 1 40 55 01 42

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